On this page I have collected what I did to select a 3D printer (up to 1-9-2015).
- Try some free 3D CAD software or try commercial programs.
One of the first things you must master is being able to work with a 3D CAD program.
Try them before you buy the printer because you might get so frustrated that buying the printer is just a waste of money.
- Blender
- FreeCad
- Fusion 360 !!!
- TinkerCad !!!
- 123-3D
- Read a lot of internet pages, at least:
- http://www.3dprintingdatabase.org/
- http://3druck.com/
- http://3d-printers.toptenreviews.com/
- http://nicklievendag.com/blog/
- http://3dprintingforbeginners.com/
- 3d-printer-comparison-guide-2014
- For DIY projects and modifications (mods), check:
- http://www.openbuilds.com/
- http://www.vslot-europe.com/
- http://www.makerbeamusa.com/
- http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
- http://www.thingiverse.com/ for mods
- Watch youtube videos about the selected 3d printers, search for:
- your favorite printer
- how to level the bed of your favorate printer
- failures
- any diy modifications (thingiverse)
My list of requirements for the 3D printer:
- Metal frame for better rigidity of the printer frame
- Filaments: PLA, ABS, PET, HIPS, Flex. Preferable all that is currently available
- Extruder nozzle temperature up to 270 degrees Celsius, preferable up to 300 (imposed by the filaments).
- Heated bed, up to 110 degrees Celsius
- Stand-alone printing using a SD-card
- Preferable enclosed print area (needed for larger ABS objects)
- Preferable a direct drive for the flexible filament (means: filament drive sits on the extruder instead of close to the spool)
- Preferable Auto levelling of the bed or no need to level the bed
- Preferable printing space at least 20*20*20 cm
- Preferable no DIY kit and 'out of the box' ready to use in a few steps
List of 'not for me' printers:
- Leapfrog, found to many negative recommendations (unstable, unreliable, not hassle free)
- BigBuilder, nozzle temperature maximum 250 degrees , no ABS and Nylon printing
- Wanhao 5S, nozzle temperature maximum 230 degrees
- XYZprinting Nobel, resin is too much of a hassle (why do they call this the future...?)
- Sharebot NG, quality issues
- Zortrax M-200, has all but you cannot control the print-temperature unless you buy a 150$ device from z-temp.co.
- ZYYX, has all, instead of a heated bed some special surface glass bed which needs to be replaced every... months
List of 'I like' printers:
- Craftbot Plus, has almost all, no auto levelling
- Mankati Fullscale XT PLUS, has almost all, no auto levelling, 26 kg, nozzle temp max 300 degrees.
- Makergear M2
- Lulzbot Mini, has almost all but only 15*15*15 cm
- Mass Portal Pharaoh ED, has almost all, all metal parts, but too expensive (~3300 Euro)
- Printerbot plus
- Rapide 3D, very nice, 2499 dollar excluding import taxes and vat, too expensive
- Dreammaker OVERLORD, very slow, build platform diameter 170mm only, looks great though.
- Brahma 3d, very nice, but did not reply on any mail request about price...
- Tripodmaker 3d, no flex, no auto bed leveling (yet)
-
DIY kits
- Big Box 3d, DIY, only plastic, very little to no steel or alu.
- Felix, no bed levelling, nozzle temp max 275 degrees (should be enough)
- Prusa I3 steel, has a large community, steel or aluminium, cheap
- 3D Modular Systems, Scalar M or XL, no direct drive, looks like an upgraded Prusa
There are so may different 3d printers and each has its pro's and con's. That makes it difficult to choose any.
If any I would probably go for the ZYYX or Craftbot.
I have choosen a DIY kit from www.kitprinter3d.com: Prusa I3 Steel, with E3d V6, auto bed levelling, aluminium heat bed and SAV MK1 board.
Lets wait and see what the kit does...
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